Sicilian Pork

In the hills north of Ragusa—the Monti Iblei, they’re called—there’s an unusual restaurant that’s famous all over Sicily – because nothing is served here but pork. In fact, the restaurant’s motto is: Qui si magnifica il porco—here pork is glorified. And it’s true. From the time it was founded by the great-grandparents of Salvatore LaTerra, Ristorante Majore has existed by, for, and about nothing but pork, and much of the time pork cooked over live fire, which might be the best way of all.