Mark Furstenberg: Finding the Right Niche for Whole Grain Breads
Consumers may not be ready for an all-whole-wheat world, but they are definitely ready for choice. At the sandwich counter or in the bread basket, whole-grain breads and rolls give diners the option to make a healthier selection. Mark Furstenberg, owner of the Bread Line in Washington, D.C., and a visiting instructor at The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, believes that subtlety is key to incorporating whole-grain breads successfully.
"My notion is that whole grains have to be introduced to the bread basket in one of two ways," say the baker. "Either as alternatives, or as a component—for example, wheat berries in a white bread."
Furstenberg is getting the chance to test his theories at Legal Seafoods, the Boston-based restaurant chain, which recently retained him to devise a bread basket with more whole grains. In a sandwich program, says the baker, whole-grain breads are an easy fit. A strong-flavored rye bread could be great with a smoked-fish filling or cold meats. Whole wheat bread works well with tomatoes and harmonizes with cheese. "Don't think of bread as the vehicle, but as a part of the food," he suggests. "It's a component in the same way other ingredients are."
Look to other cultures for inspiration. Scandinavia's crisp flatbreads, India's whole-wheat chapattis, and Mexico's corn tortillas are whole-grain breadstuffs with broad appeal. Borrow from these traditions but respect them, urges Furstenberg.
And remember that you don't have to go "all the way" to whole grains. Adding whole wheat berries to a hamburger bun would enhance its nutritional score while providing extra nuggets of texture and flavor for diners.