So I returned to CIA. I learned from Chef Robert Briggs, Associate Director of Continuing Education, that the school was launching the ProChef Certification program. I received permission to participate in the pilot program for ProChef level II, which included testing on Mediterranean, Baking, Food Science, Labor, Food Cost and Financial Analysis, Nutrition, Healthy Cooking, and Garde Manger. The courses really opened my eyes. So did my invaluable CMC practice sessions, supervised by seven Certified Master Chefs. In January 2004 I took CIA's CMC Preparation course with Chef Ken Arnone, where I observed the entire test from outside the kitchen windows. Of the six candidates, only two ultimately passed.
When I relocated to Korea, I won the National Military Chef Championship, which gave me the chance to take a Continuing Education course at the CIA. I elected to take the ProChef Level III examination in November 2005. I knew I would have to sharpen my mind to pass the Level III examination. I began studying Latin American and Asian cuisines, took wine courses and studied strategic management and accounting via on-line college courses. I returned to the States in November 2005 to take the four-day ProChef Level III course at CIA. There were five of us in the class. Here is my report on a memorable and exceptional course.
Day One:
Our class included Andrew Maggitti, Cherokee Town and Country Club; Patrick Wilson, St. Andrew's Golf Club; James Zellers from Lords Valley Country Club; Dave Kamen, Associate Professor at the CIA/Continuing Education Department, and myself.
Our kitchen proctor for all cooking segments was Chef Mark Ainsworth. Tasting evaluators included Chef Dan Turgeon and Brian Smith.
We were issued a list of groceries from which we would prepare a four-course meal, to be paired with white and red wines. My list included leg of lamb, monkfish filets, mushrooms, acorn squash and eggplant. We had two hours to plan the menu, which seemed like an eternity. I needed to keep my menu flavors neutral so they didn't conflict with the wines. To complete this dinner, I drew on my 22 years as a cook.
My meal included puree of acorn squash soup, sautéed monkfish with spinach and a white wine cream sauce, mixed green salad with a light balsamic vinaigrette and warm mushroom tart, and roast leg of lamb with potato and eggplant puree and maple glazed vegetables. Even though I hadn't cooked in the testing environment since March at the Army competition, I was completely comfortable with the situation. The written examination on wines of the world and wine pairing was extremely difficult. None of us passed. We were given the test again the next day.
Day Two:
Latin American cookery. I had to make three dishes involving Mexican Mole sauce. I am passionate about eating Mexican cuisine, but my experience in cooking it is limited. My ingredients included Masa Harina (corn flour), Huitlacoche (corn silk fungus), and chicken. The result was corn chips with Tomatillo and Avocado Salsa, Corn Crepes with Huitlacoche, and Chicken with Mole Sauce. My best dish was the corn crepes with huitlacoche. I sautéed onions and garlic in canola oil and then added spinach, corn, and the can of huitlacoche, salt, pepper, and Epazote (Leafy Mexican Herb). I made corn crepes with the standard crepe batter and the addition of pureed corn kernels. Then I layered the crepes and huitlacoche mixture in a casserole with white cheddar cheese and sour cream. I also made individual crepes and topped them with sour cream and white cheddar cheese. Judges (and Certified Master Chefs) Mark Erickson, Victor Gielisse and Ronald DeSantis all loved this dish. Chef Erickson suggested that I add more water to the dough and beat in on the Kitchen Aide mixer until it becomes very pliable so that it will roll out smooth and thin. He instructed me to fire-roast the green tomatillos for the salsa while retaining the skin; this extracts the bitterness.
In order to pass the hands-on and written exams, I conducted research from my home in South Korea and prepared a variety of foods that I could be tested on. We took a 25-question written test on Latin American Cuisine.
Day Three:
Asian practical exam. I had to prepare Chinese pork dumplings and two other dishes of my choice. I chose Pot Sticker Pork Dumplings, Stir-Fried Szechaun Chicken, Steamed Rice, Stir-Fried Vegetables, and Egg Drop Soup. I consulted with Chef Shirley Cheng, Associate Professor of Asian Cuisine at the CIA, whose advice and mentorship proved helpful and gave me more confidence going into the kitchen. While I had challenges keeping the wok hot enough for Chinese Stir-Fry, I received a passing grade. My chicken lacked the characteristic glazing and browning of a great stir-fry but the flavor was still very good. The pork dumplings were made with homemade dough made of all-purpose flour and hot water. I formed the dumplings into little purses and then lightly fried them on one side before adding chicken stock and covering them to steam. They would have been better if I had added the chicken stock in two or three stages throughout the cooking process and lightly browned the bottoms. The judges found the raw grated ginger in the dipping sauce a little overpowering, and they did not appreciate the added black mushroom in the dumplings, which they said has a bitter flavor. The judges commented that my rice was perfect, adding that many people cannot cook rice properly. I was so relieved, I almost started laughing. The time I have lived in Korea has helped, but I really benefited from watching my Korean wife make perfect rice for the last thirteen years. To make the rice, measure it correctly and wash it in cold water until it runs clear. Then add the rice to a small pot and added the required amount of water. I cover it tightly with aluminum foil and cook it moderately for 25 minutes. Then I turn off the heat and let it continue to steam until I need it for service. Our evaluators included Chefs Prem Kumar and Hinnerk von Bargen, both very knowledgeable in Asian cuisine.
That afternoon we took a written test on Asian cuisine, which included foods from Korea, Japan, India, Thailand, Vietnam, and China. Finally we completed a separate written exam on European cuisine, which included cuisines of France, The United Kingdom, Denmark, Germany, Poland, Spain, Italy, Austria, Belgium, Luxembourg, Holland, and Switzerland.
Day Four:
We had two role play exams, one on human resources and the other on financial management. I had to confront an employee who stole spices from the restaurant. Proctors included Tama Murphy, Director of Continuing Education and Mark Gleason, associate professor of business in the bachelor's degree program. We conducted a financial analysis of a restaurant and I determined the areas needing improvement; inventory management, accounting, purchasing and receiving procedures. Proctors Chef Robert Briggs and Mr. Evan Barnet asked for solutions to get the restaurant back on track. It was challenging, but I loved the exercise and now I will use these lessons-learned frequently with the Army.
Among my class members, there wasn't any competition among us that I noticed, and all were willing to assist when needed. I learned a lot about financial management from the other chefs and we all learned from each other during the critiques.
Graduation:
After the financial examination we all gathered in the evaluation room for Champagne and a short graduation ceremony.
Chef Robert Briggs of the CIA announced that we all had passed. We all placed our right hands on the Professional Chef text Book and recited the professional chef's creed:
"I, Travis Smith, a chef, do solemnly swear to uphold those values which rightfully represent the Professional Chef. The mastery of my craft, the pursuit of perfection, a passion for life-long learning, the sharing of my knowledge, respect for my peers and commitment to those I serve, are virtues to which I aspire. I promise to carry myself in all that I say and do as an exemplary model of those who share my honor to be certified as a Professional Chef."
Uttering those words made me feel a sense of pride and accomplishment. I was feeling very good about the week. But I was tired; we had all worked hard without much rest. Our class gave each other guidance and we felt we were all in it together. Therefore, it made the ending of the short journey bittersweet.
Achieving the ProChef Level III Certification is a bonus and measurement of accomplishment that I am proud to have. I highly recommend the course to any chef who is seeking professional development and certification. This unique program sets the standard for culinary development and certification. It is also a great stepping-stone to the Certified Master Chef level, which I hope to take in the next two years.
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