When the peanut reached India with the Portuguese, it had circled the earth, and two varieties arrived. The larger, so-called Brazilian variety came east from the Caribbean, through Africa to India. The second variety was also carried by the Portuguese when they sailed across the Pacific from Mexico. This was the smaller Peruvian variety that traveled through Manila (Philippines) to China.

The Chinese had found ways to grow the peanut in volume and to make oil with it. As it happened with tea, the peanut's agricultural methods were transplanted to India.

East Indians, with a legacy of vegetarianism, latched onto it as a source of protein, one that thrives in the tropics. "In India, the peanut is never thought of as anything but good for you," says Julie Sahni.

Like China, India quickly prized the peanut as a prolific source of oil. The southern regions of Maharashtra and Gujarati became major oil producers. These regions also made the most creative use of the peanut as a protein in vegetarian dishes.

The recipe for Maharashtra-Style Fiery Hot Tapioca and Peanut Croquettes shows the creative uses that the cooks of Southern India made of peanuts as a protein source and in vegetarian preparations. Serve this as either an appetizer or a vegetarian main dish.

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