Until the Spanish conquerors introduced cattle in the 16th century, Latin America had no beef. Today, the conquistadors' legacy remains in the extensive cattle ranches of Brazil, the Argentine pampas and northern New Mexico. Each of those countries has a barbecue tradition derived from the local cowboys-gauchos in Argentina, vaqueros in Mexico-who perfected the art of cooking meat over an open fire.

In Argentina, where huge steaks are practically a daily staple, diners patronize parrilladas, restaurants specializing in charcoal-grilled meats. Spicy Chimichurri Sauce is the condiment of choice, a zesty accompaniment for today's popular grilled hanger steaks.

In Mexico, cooks use skirt steaks or other thin cuts for carne asada, grilled meat seasoned with salt, pepper and lime and served with guacamole and beans. A close relative is arracheras, skirt steak marinated with lime, chiles and garlic, then grilled, sliced and served with grilled onions and tortillas. Sound familiar? It's the north-of-the-border fajitas. Boiled and shredded beef chuck (carne deshebrada) fills tacos, tamales and chimichangas. Dressed with vinaigrette, avocado and crumbled Mexican cheese and piled into a soft bun, the shredded beef makes a delicious torta, or Mexican sandwich.

Throughout Latin America, cooks make versions of Picadillo, the spicy ground beef and olive filling sweetened with raisins and apples. It's spooned into tacos and stuffed into poblano chilies to make Chiles Rellenos de Picadillo. Picadillo also fills tamales, gorditas and Empanadillas, the fried pastry triangles served hot as an appetizer or, with a salad and guacamole, as a light meal. Smoky chipotle chilies warm up many sauces for grilled and braised beef in Mexico. Filete al Chipotle demonstrates the basic method using the value cut Shoulder Tender.