Geography as Destiny: Coffee by Country

Just like wine, coffee reflects the place where it's grown. Some people call that "terroir," the notion that everything about the environment—sun, soil, wind, temperature, rainfall, altitude—affects the flavor in the cup. To a connoisseur, coffee-producing countries have distinct flavor signatures, although processing method can have a huge impact, too. And of course, many coffees depend on beans from multiple sources, even multiple continents, combined to achieve a house style or a harmonious blend.

But now that many specialty-coffee suppliers and shops sell beans identified by country of origin, it's helpful to know what to expect from beans from different parts of the world.

Latin America: At least 17 different Latin American nations grow coffee, from the highlands of southern Mexico, through Central America, to the South American countries of Brazil, Ecuador, Venezuela, Peru, Colombia, and Bolivia. And don't forget the Caribbean, home of the famous Jamaica Blue Mountain coffee, among many others.

All together, these Latin American countries grow most of the world's specialty coffee. Latin American coffees are generally regarded as "lively" because of their bold acidity. Many exhibit aromas of cocoa or nuts. But altitude also makes a big difference. The high-grown coffees of Guatemala—some of the world's finest—will be more acidic than the rounder, sweeter Brazilian coffees, which are lower grown. But "acidic" is no flaw. In the coffee world, it's a postive term for that pleasurable briskness that we want from a brew.

Africa/Arabia: Yemen, Kenya, Ethiopia, Tanzania, Malawi, Zimbabwe, Rwanda—Coffee thrives in the mountain ranges that link these countries, yielding some of the world's more intriguing brews. African coffees often show floral or citrus notes; Arabian brews tend to be more winey and berrylike. Kenya is famous for coffee with vigorous acidity and berry tones; Ethiopia for highly perfumed coffee with plentiful floral and citrus scents. Coffees from Yemen, sometimes known as Mocha, are often particularly winey. (Although mocha has come to mean a coffee-and-chocolate drink, the original meaning comes from the port of Mocha, departure point for Yemen's coffee.)

Asia/Pacific: This category embraces coffees from Indonesia (which includes Sumatra, Sulawesi and Java), Hawaii and Papua New Guinea. Sumatra coffee has a velvety body and complex character, "with an acidity that resonates deep inside the heart of the coffee," write Kenneth Davids, a world coffee authority and editor of the Coffee Review (www.coffeereview.com). Davids singles out the Sumatra Lintong and Sumatra Mandheling as among the best of the island's coffees. Hawaii's renowned Kona coffee is medium bodied, with a spicy aroma and a varied acid profile. From Java, you can expect a relatively light-bodied brew with restrained acidity.

Blends: Coffee companies blend beans from different origins to take advantage of the best features of each and to create a complex, multifaceted cup. The skilled artisans who practice this craft might blend an acidy coffee, like high-grown Costa Rica, with a sweeter style, like Brazil Santos. They might add Ethiopian beans to fill out the aroma, or Sumatra Mandheling for depth. You can test your own skills as a blender at home by combining single-origin beans to supply any missing notes in the coffee you typically buy.

Recipe links:
Cuban Style Polenta Tamales
Coffee Coloradito Mole