In
the U.S., diners think of tacos, quesadillas
and tostadas as typical Mexican restaurant
fare. Add some rice and refried beans
and you have a full meal. But in Mexico,
these tortilla-based dishes are considered
snack foods, or antojitos (literally,
little whims or cravings). You buy them
from a street vendor, snack shop or market
stall when you’re a little hungry,
maybe late at night, but you wouldn’t
have such informal dishes at a proper
dinner.
Mexico’s antojitos provide plenty
of possibilities for the American chef who
wants to offer some creative small plates—whether
in the bar or at the table.
With small corn tortillas, you can make
flautas (filled, rolled and deep-fried
tacos); mini tostadas (crisp-fried flat
tortillas with a topping, such as shredded
greens and grilled beef); or traditional
soft tacos.
Although American fast-food restaurants
have popularized the crisp taco shell, soft
tacos are much more common in Mexico. For
a soft taco, the tortillas may be quite
small in diameter, but they are usually
doubled to support the filling. Authentic
tacos are never overstuffed. They typically
contain just a few ounces of grilled or
braised beef or other meats and a dab of
salsa—a two- or three-bite snack that
is perfect bar fare.
Here are some traditional fillings for
soft tacos:
Bistec encebollado (beef
with onions): seared skirt steak sliced
into strips and combined with fried onions
Carne asada: accordion-cut
beef chuck (see video demo) seasoned with
lime and salt, then seared on a griddle
or charcoal grill and cut across the grain
Carne deshebrada (shredded
beef): boiled beef chuck, shredded and reheated
with onion, garlic, tomatoes and chiles
Picadillo: ground beef
simmered with tomatoes, onions, raisins,
cinnamon and vinegar
Salpicón: beef brisket
steamed in a banana leaf, then shredded |
Master the Accordion
Cut
Mexican
butchers use a special “accordion
cut” to make thin-sliced, grill-worthy
beef from cuts that aren’t naturally
tender. Learn how in this video demo. |
