Japanese Grill Traditions: Teppanyaki and More
Because most Asian homes did not have ovens until modern times—and many still do not—charcoal grilling became a dominant technique. In most Asian cultures, foods for the grill are cut small so they cook quickly, requiring less fuel. Rarely do Asian chefs prepare large roasts or haunches of meat on the grill, as an American chef might cook a leg of lamb.
The hibachi came to Japan by way of China. In ancient times, it consisted of a clay-lined dugout in the floor, or a hollowed-out piece of wood lined with clay and filled with charcoal. The hibachi was used for home heating and for preparing yakimono, or grilled dishes. Only in modern times, with the rise of hibachi restaurants, has the hibachi become a tabletop grilling appliance and a device that allows city dwellers to grill on their balconies. In hibachi restaurants, the diner becomes the chef, deciding what to grill and how long to grill it.
Teppanyaki, popularized by the Benihana chain, takes place on a teppan, or large griddle, typically made today of stainless steel. "It's a mouthwatering experience, because you're in front of the chef, telling him how you want your food cooked," says Armando Justo, sous-chef at Ozumo in San Francisco. "You can't complain to the waiter."
Benihana chefs are showmen, but traditional teppanyaki chefs are serious professionals who rely on top-notch ingredients, such as impeccably fresh squid and shrimp, to impress their customers. "It is not usual in Japan for the chef to put on a display of knife juggling, unless for the benefit of parties of foreign tourists," writes Japanese food authority Richard Hosking in A Dictionary of Japanese Food (Charles E. Tuttle Company). Teppanyaki vegetables might include bean sprouts, onions and fresh shiitake mushrooms. Nothing is marinated first. It's merely grilled, then served with a simple dipping sauce. In some teppanyaki restaurants, the diners do the cooking.
Grilled foods are the specialty in yet another type of Japanese establishment, the izakaya. Similar to a tavern or tapas bar, the izakaya is where Japanese businessmen—and, increasingly, businesswomen—go to relax and have a drink after work. There is always food available, usually skewered and grilled items served in small portions. Many izakaya are small, family run and habitually packed.
According to Justo, the Maori people of New Zealand have a similar grilling method that relies on natural volcanic rock instead of a steel griddle. The rock can be heated much higher than the teppan—to about 750°F—and it sears foods so quickly that it locks the flavor inside. A restaurant version of this stone is now being marketed by an Australian company. "Cook a sirloin on this rock and you need no sauce whatsoever," says Justo. "We'll be seeing more of this."