Tale of Two Roots
Neither yuca nor taro is indigenous to the Caribbean, but these tropical tubers have become mainstays of the diet. "Yuca is as important as corn is in Mexico," says Maricel Presilla. "It is in our blood. If we don't have yuca for Christmas, there is no Christmas."
Also known as cassava, yuca originated in South America and came to the Caribbean with the original settlers, the Arawak Indians. It resembles a large daikon, with thin, rough brown skin and starchy white flesh. It does not have a pronounced flavor; in fact, you could fairly call it bland—all the better to absorb the garlicky and peppery sauces it's often paired with. When cooked—boiling is typical—the texture becomes waxy. It can have a fibrous core, which should be removed.
Boiled and mashed yuca mixed with egg and seasoning makes delicious fritters. But more commonly in the Caribbean, yuca is peeled, boiled in chunks, and liberally doused with mojo criollo, a pungent garlic sauce with sour orange juice and olive oil. Yuca should always be eaten hot; it hardens and loses charm as it cools.
Taro, known also as malanga or yautía in Puerto Rico, came to the Caribbean with African slaves. It has a starchy texture and nutty flavor reminiscent of chestnuts. The skin is rough and dark and must be peeled, either before or after boiling. The white flesh tends to become grayish when cooked, but the appealing sweetness makes up for it. Like yuca, mashed taro can be fried into golden fritters. Chunks of boiled taro are added to soups and stews, or doused, like yuca, with mojo criollo.
For carbohydrate enthusiasts, the Caribbean is paradise. In addition to the frequent presence of yuca and taro, virtually every meal includes fluffy white rice and black beans, sometimes mixed together. To Presilla, it is regrettable that Latin restaurants in the U.S. often omit these starchy foods in deference, perhaps, to a notion of what Americans consider healthful or desirable. Black beans and rice are core components of Caribbean dining, says Presilla, and they should be on the plate.