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Julie
Sahni
Q. What are some traditional Indian dessert
flavors?
A. Indian desserts begin with reduced
milk, called khoya. It tastes like milk
fudge. This is the underpinning of all
dessert flavors. Other flavors are then
added.
Q. What is kulfi and how is it made?
A. Kulfi is very popular, it’s
India’s version of ice cream. It’s
made from milk, with no eggs or cream.
The milk is cooked down and flavorings
like cardamom and saffron added. It is
still frozen. The milk mixture is put in
conical molds and then placed in ice water.
Men shake the molds until the kulfi freezes.
It has an incredible texture, like gelato.
It’s the Indian dessert of choice.
Q. How do desserts and sweetmeats differ?
A. Desserts are consumed at the end of
the meal. They are milk-based puddings
and not particularly sweet. They are eaten
to soothe the stomach from all the spices
eaten during the meal. Sweetmeats are served
as a snack. Sometimes syrupy, dense in
texture, they incorporate nuts, roasted
beans, and grains. They are eaten in late
afternoon to take the edge off your hunger.
Today you sometimes see sweetmeats in restaurants
but this is not traditional.
Q. Describe an Indian rice pudding?
A. An Indian rice pudding is the basic
dessert of India. There are different
variations throughout the regions of India. They are cooked-down milk with rice,
sugar, and flavorings added at the end.
Flavorings depend on the region—rosewater,
saffron, or coconut. |
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Mark Furstenberg
Q. What characteristics of Latin cuisine
have influenced your baking of bread and
bread-based foods?
A. The irony is that most bread bakers
in the United States are Eurocentric. They
make European breads for European and American
customers but the majority of people who
make the breads are Latino.
Q. Describe some of the menu items at
Bread Line which have Latin twists?
A. I make traditional bread-based foods
from Latin and South America. I make my
version of pupusa, a traditional Salvadorian
flatbread made from masa. I mix masa and
water with a little olive oil and salt.
After it sits for a while I form it two-inch
balls, make an indentation, and fill it
(usually) with shredded pork and white
cheese. They are then closed and flattened
into a cake which is grilled on a lightly
greased griddle. I also make Argentinean
empanadas. The fact that the flavorings
are varied and consistent with a country’s
tradition doesn’t really make a difference
to most customers (Latin or European) but
does give my employees a sense of pride
to include recipes from their cultures.
Q. How do bread and bread based foods
differ between the United States and Latin
America countries?
A. Corn dominates Latin bread based foods.
Seasonings differ and more sugar is used.
Also, flatbreads are more common.
Q. What kinds of ovens were used to make
traditional breads in Latin America?
A. The same ovens that were used in Europe—stone
beehive ovens. In Latin America, more were
made from clay than in Europe, where brick
was used. |
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Minoru
Naka
Q. Define wagashi and tell us about its
history.
A. Wagashi is a Japanese sweet made with
red adzuki beans. It expresses the seasons
by its texture shape and color. There are
two categories of wagashi—one made
only by artisans with special techniques.
The other is prepared at home. In summer
more agar-agar and warabi flour are used,
and its texture is like jelly and translucent.
This makes it look cooler. In primitive Japan
nuts (walnuts and chestnuts) and fruits were
consumed. Then honey and amazero (a sweet-tasting
creeper plant) were discovered. Lastly, Japanese
found rice flour and combined it with malt
and added it to sweet potato and sugar cane.
Brown unrefined sugar came before white sugar.
Q. What are the main ingredients of wagashi?
A. Rice flour, azuki and kuzu flour, wararbi
flour (from the fern family), agar-agar,
wasanbon sugar, and cane sugar. There are
three categories of wagashi depending on
its shelf life, one day, one week, and two
to three years.
Q. Are dessert preferences and sweet preferences
changing in Japan? Are the traditions maintaining
their popularity?
A. Desserts and sweets have changed some,
people prefer less sugar and sweetness. The
technique and expression are the same. |
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Daniel Tay
Q. What are the primary flavors and ingredients
in Singaporean desserts?
A. Beans (red and green, mung beans,
soy beans), sesame seeds, durian, and lychee.
Q. What are some traditional desserts
or breakfast pastries?
A. For breakfast there is a Chinese version
of a French croissant called yu tiao. Also
soy bean curd is eaten. Not much jam is
used, but there is a famous jam with coconut
and pandan leaf called Kaya. It’s
spread over European bread.
Q. How do you marry your European training
with the production of traditional Singaporean
desserts?
A. European desserts are foreign to Singapore. I mix traditional spices and ingredients
in European desserts. I try not to go too
far from what Singapore is used to.
Q. Is there a traditional Singapore bread
style?
A. Buns with fillings—red bean,
curry chicken, Chinese ham. Dried pork
with bread and mayonnaise-like sauce on
top.
|
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Patricia
Quintana
Q. What is a mollinio?
A. It is an implement used to froth hot
chocolate. It is carved from one piece
of wood. A round piece rings around a straight
piece of the wood. As it is stirred in
the hot chocolate air gets in and creates
bubbles. Every house has a mollinio.
Q. Describe Mexico’s pastry culinary
history.
A. It is a way to understand pre-Hispanic
times. The ingredients were indigenous—pineapple,
guava, yams, avocado, amaranth, peanuts,
chocolate, and spices such as allspice,
annatto seeds, and chiles. They were mixed
with honey (extra virgin) and pounded corn.
Syrup was used from an ancient plant called
an agave was used as a sweetener. Spanish
added sugar cane and flour around 1535.
First crops of sugar cane were in Veracruz. Nuns came to Latin America and baked
in convents … basic Mexican desserts
were large platters with milk and nuts.
Almonds came and then cinnamon from Ceylon. It is fusion, mixed flavors. Ginger came
from Asia. Rice became important for rice
pudding along with milk, sugar, and eggs.
Pine nuts came from the northern part of
the country. Traditional desserts are fritters
in caramelized sugar with cinnamon and
cloves, and desserts with fruits and syrup
using white sugar. Indians used chocolate
without sugar and added honey, chile, allspice,
and annatto seeds. Chocolate was fermented
with cacao flower by burying with limestone.
This brought spirit into the chocolate.
Q. What desserts represent the traditions
of Mexico?
A. Preserved fruits with sugar, churros,
hot chocolate made with a molinillo, pastries
with nuts and pine nuts, cinnamon and vanilla,
condensed yams (rolled into cigars and
crystallized on the outside), round flattened
cakes cooked with milk and sugar with cinnamon
vanilla, burnt sugar.
Q. What are some of the holiday desserts
of Mexico?
A. Fritters soaked in syrup, almond paste,
and pumpkin used to make figures which
represent fruits of Mexico, mamey, guava,
prickly pear, mangoes, banana, and colored
with natural colors of fruit. Also meringues.
|
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Najmieh Batmanglih
Q. How does Persian ice cream differ
from American ice cream?
A. It’s made without eggs and gets
elasticity from saleb (root of orchid)
or mastique. Saleb is ground into a powder.
Two teaspoons of pure saleb are used for
five cups of milk. Dilute saleb in a small
amount of the milk. Reduce the rest of
the milk, add saleb. Pulverize the mastique
(an Arabic gum from the resin of a tree)
with sugar. Add to the warm milk and cook
until thick and it coats the back of spoon.
Cool, flavor and sugar, and then freeze.
It’s a stretchy, chewy, perfumy ice
cream. Frozen crushed pure cream in chip
form is added after it’s frozen,
making it crunchy and creamy.
Q. What are the some of the popular flavors?
A. Saffron, rosewater, pistachio, or
any combination of these.
Q. What kind of machine is used to freeze
Persian ice cream?
A. In ancient times a still bath over
cooled ice was used. As the mixture froze
the bath was turned around. This method
is still used in the country but in cities,
modern soft-serve Italian machines are
used.
Q. How is Persian ice cream traditionally
served? In restaurants? Street stands?
A. It’s served soft, not hardened
off. It is stretchy and not scooped. As
a kid I would try to make it last as long
as possible without dripping or melting.
It is delicious and sensuous. Served at
street stands or in dishes at restaurants
with Persian wafers. Shops sold ice cream
too, cafes designed for ice cream consumption.
It was a ceremony in the afternoon when
we got sundaes in long-stemmed glasses
with long spoons.
Sorbet can be made with rice noodles
soaked in rosewater and syrup. Make syrup
and freeze it. Chop soaked noodles and
put in machine so they freeze right away.
Serve with Persian blackberries, fresh
lime juice, and fresh sour cherries. |
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Laura Cid
Perea
Q. What are the origins of dulce de leche
and cajeta?
A. Dulce de leche is not Mexican but
from Argentina. It is their version of
caramel. Mexicans use cajeta. Dulce de
leche is candy or an ingredient. Cajeta
is made from goat’s milk or half
goat and cow. Sugar is added and reduced
to caramel. Cajeta will get more known
in United States. From goat milk it gets
acidity and beautiful finish. In Mexico
it is distributed commercially in glass
jars almost like Nutella. Most versions
have a goat’s face on the jar. Mexicans
are very proud of their cajeta.
The Spanish came to Latin America. There
were lots of goats, used in different ways.
There wasn’t refrigeration, so they
had to find way to preserve the milk. Nuns
came up with a lot of recipes. As a candy,
it is traditionally packed in wooden boxes.
Given as gifts or used as ingredient.
Q. Have you had to adjust any of your
Mexican recipes for the American palate?
A. I try to be as traditional as possible
at Bombon. Stick to recipes. Add or change
presentation a little. They are good recipes
with great ingredients, so they please American
and Mexican palates.
Q. What are some traditional Mexican
candies?
A. There is a huge assortment of candies
influenced by French, Belgian, and Austrian
chefs in Mexico . Recipes were adapted
using local good ingredients. Coconut candies,
candies made with milk, raw sugar. Mexican
cinnamon, pepitas (pumpkin seeds), tamarind,
and spices. Not huge amount of nuts. Pecans,
peanuts, yes, but almonds are expensive.
Yams and sweet potatoes are used in candies
too.
Q. How does a Mexican pastry shop differ
from an American one?
A. Mexicans are big about fiestas. It is
not unusual to make big cakes for wedding,
baptisms and first communions for 300, 500,
or even a 1000 people. The whole town or
neighborhood is invited. Cakes are fruity
with seasonal mango and guava, combinations.
A lot of liquor like rum, tequila, and rompope
is used. |

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Suvir Saran and
Michael Laiskonis
Q. How do you incorporate Indian flavors
into your American dessert menu?
A. I use Indian spices and herbs. There
are many similarities with French desserts.
Indians reduce cream until it almost dries
out completely. It has a smoother consistency
then French cream.
Q. What are some of the desserts on the
menu at Amma?
A. Rosewater panna cotta with candied
roses and ginger confit. Things with a
contemporary twist of French style and
Indian spices. Chai pot de crème,
transforming it by presenting it in an
egg shell and layering it with pistachio
caramel, orange blossom foam, and citrus
reduction. The textures in Indian desserts
are amazing. Indian cooking documents around
800 BC found that there are 18 different
textures in a complete meal.
Q. What are the primary ingredients used
in Indian desserts?
A. Milk, milk, and milk! Yogurt, Indian
cheeses, nuts, chickpea and lotus flours,
lotus and dragon fruit seeds (tinier than
mustard seed, ground up in flour and used
as starch). Cornstarch is not used as it
does not have much fiber.
Q. Are there different desserts served
in Indian restaurants vs. those enjoyed
at home?
A. India is not a restaurant-dining country.
Affluent people have begun dining out only
in the last 20 to 25 years. European styles
of desserts are served in restaurants.
At home and in sweet shops, Indian desserts
are served. |
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Pichet Ong
Q. What are the key things to keep in
mind when reinterpreting a culture’s
classic desserts for an American menu?
A. Keep in mind the essence of a culture’s
desserts and the essence of the American
dessert. It is a marriage of two cultures,
a marriage of two essences. For example,
coconut milk in Thai desserts is flavored
with jasmine, and vanilla is used in American
desserts. It is all about balance of flavors.
Q. What are some primary ingredients
used in Asian sweets?
A. They are heavy in starch, but not
wheat. We use tapioca and rice starch.
Q. What are some of the desserts on your
menu?
A. Fruit-based, tropical, pineapple,
papaya, mango, tapioca, desserts in form
of beverage—no utensil just straw.
Tapioca dumplings with diced exotic fruit
jack fruit, palm seed, papaya, passion
fruit served on crushed frozen coconut
water.
Q. How do you produce desserts using
less sugar?
A. It is based on a concentration of
flavors which I learned from the savory
kitchen. When cooked down and used as flavorings,
cooked pineapple, for example, add to the
sweetness of a cake. Chocolate flavoring
[is done] with Ovaltine. They have sugar
but used in different ways. |
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Vicki Wells
Q. What are some of your favorite Latin
ingredients?
A. Chocolate, coffee, and vanilla. More
unusual flavors are pilancillio-type Mexican
brown sugar, tropical fruit flavors, and
goat’s milk.
Q. What are some of the items on your
dessert menu?
A. My versions of flan in each restaurant.
Chocolate cake with dulce de leche and
toasted pecan ice cream. Ice cream sandwich
with milk chocolate wafer and espresso
pine nut ice cream and warm toffee sauce.
Q. You have been a pastry chef at many
different styles of restaurants over the
years. How has that affected your personal
dessert style?
A. I feel more well-rounded and can incorporate
different things and techniques but keep
my own style. I taught for a long time
and that was the best learning experience.
I incorporate it in everyday work.
Q. What is the most challenging thing
for a pastry chef in designing a dessert
menu?
A. To please yourself so you will be
happy, please the customer so desserts
will sell, and to please the restaurant
owner. Also to match the main menu to desserts
so everything flows and goes together. |
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Chai Siriyarn
Q. What are some traditional Thai dessert
flavors?
A. Desserts evolved with the sentiment
of the Thai nation. Desserts originated
from royal and other cuisines. Mid-16 th
century introductions blended to suit Thai
palates, eating culture, and ingredients.
Main ingredients are flour, sugar, and
coconut milk and meat. There are five types
of flour—rice, sweet rice flour,
tapioca, arrowroot, mung bean flour. Last
three often used with first two to make
particular texture. Vegetables like squash
and taro root are used. White pepper ground
into a paste with sugar and palm sugar
and used to coat cookies. Palm sugar is
indispensable for Thai desserts. Made from
the raw sap of coconut palm, it is cooked
for a long time until thick and condensed.
It is creamy and aromatic.
Q. What are some of the desserts on your
menu?
A. In summer we serve cold noodles made
from mung bean flour with coconut sugar
syrup and pandan extract. It’s served
with shaved ice. In winter we serve “14
lotus seeds,” made with sticky rice
flour, green from pandan leaf, yellow from
squash, purple from taro meat. It is cooked
in coconut milk and meat. |
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Thomas Haas
Q. What Latin flavors have influenced
the flavors of your chocolates?
A. I use kalamansi fruit (used to get
frozen as puree, now fresh) as a thin gelee
and layer it with white chocolate ganache
which is less powerful than bittersweet
chocolate. Vanilla and Jamaican rum in
truffles, rompope which I use with vanilla.
Candied ginger which I rehydrate in orange
essence, then dehydrate again and dip in
dark chocolate, fresh Asian ginger in truffles,
grated and infused in cream for many hours
and then emulsified in chocolate. Green
cardamom, ground to order, is good balanced
with almond and milk chocolate. Chocolate
with splash of whiskey and toasted caramelized
almonds.
Q. What are some of the desserts on your
menu at Senses?
A. Kalamansi and Venezuelan chocolate
tart. Rich layer of chocolate cream (70
percent) and a light mousse with Italian
meringue and kalamansi.
A coconut crème brulee baked in
tart shell and served with fresh lychees
and caramelized hazelnuts.
Pineapple and pomegranate tart, coconut
flourless sponge cake with almonds and
chocolate chips. Fresh pineapple, pomegranate,
and mint sugar.
I like to say where fruits come from.
Combinations of using Asian or Latin fruits
in cocktail parfaits, reduced coconut milk
and light meringue folded in. Fresh steamed
pineapple in a double boiler to get juices
out, with a touch of saffron and vanilla.
Make a tender gelee, combine with pineapple
juice with orange and sugar, pineapple
cubes with gelee and layer of parfait,
fresh shaved pineapple, and mango.
Haven’t gotten good papayas. Use
mangoes with pulverized mint sugar sprinkled
over as seasonings and served with coconut
tuile and calamonza sorbet (add a little
milk as it is very acidic).
Q. How do you balance the appeal of traditional
desserts with the desire to be creative
and try new things?
A. Keep traditions to those who have
mastered traditions. Take the inspiration;
don’t do a bad copy of a traditional.
Match dessert to your inner core. What
you believe and what you want to serve
to a customer. I don’t feel comfortable
serving a dessert that isn’t my tradition.
It will be fine-tuned and inspired, but
in my comfort zone. I apply techniques
that I know and am comfortable with.
Q. In Germany where you grew up, were
there many Latin- or Asian-influenced desserts?
A. No availability. Each food culture
in its tradition is based on a strong foundation.
The deeper the foundation, the more room
there is to be open and take on something
new. You can pull in different flavors
easier. Food culture isn’t as deep
in Germany as in France. |
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Gale Gand
Q. How do you include Latin flavors in
your desserts at Tru?
A. I make a tequila granita with yuzu
cream, lychees, and rose petal-pulled sugar
Sometimes I use ingredients and flavors
on their own, sometimes integrate them
with Asian flavors.
Q. What are some of your desserts with
an Asian theme?
A. I always have had Asian influences,
star anise, ginger vanilla, cinnamon. I
make a coconut tapioca with blueberries
from Indiana to give it a Midwest slant.
It is served with passion fruit ice cream,
streusel topping, and meringue bits.
Q. Are the Latin- and Asian-focused desserts
as popular as your other desserts?
A. Asian is important, Latin is interesting.
Chocolate always sells.
Q. What should pastry chefs keep in mind
when creating desserts which blend styles
from more than one culture?
A. Trust your heart, what works together
for you. Contrast—flavor, texture,
temperature. High notes of acid to complement
softer flavors. Think of ingredients in fundamental
ways. |
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Randy Zweiban
Q. What similarities are there,
if any, between Latin American and American
desserts?
A. Ingredients from the southern hemisphere
are used seasonally. Now they interweave
through regional American dishes—Southwest,
Floridian [and others] have become comfort
food here.
Q. How do Latin pastry styles differ
from those in the United States?
A. The techniques are not always French
and Italian. More peasant style and simplistic.
Q. What are some of the desserts you
are serving at Nacional 27?
A. Interpretations of tres leche cake
with dulce de leche ice cream and fresh
berries. Traditional flan with West Indian
pumpkin. In summer, at least three kinds
of exotic fruit sorbets and an ice cream
assortment. An El Rey chocolate brownie
with different sauces. Churros—cinnamon
donut with brazil nut crunch ice cream.
Q. What drew you to Latin cooking?
A. I grew up in New York City where there
is a large Latino population. I was enthralled
with big bold flavors. Moved to Miami in
1989 and got to work with Norman Van Aken
for seven years. Nuevo Latino food and
New World food now becoming prominent.
Spent a year in L.A., where it’s
Asian meets Latino. |
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Sam Mason
Q. How is your dessert style shaped by
Latin and Asian flavors?
A. My dessert style is affected by a
lot. Asian and Latin are dominant since
they are so huge in ingredients, very exotic.
New York is inundated with Asian cultures,
not as much Latin. I am open-minded and
read a lot.
Q. Describe some of the desserts on your
menu at WD-50 with Asian and Latin influences?
A. Asian—I use a lot of soy sauces:
soy caramel, confit of kumquats, toasted
sesame ice cream, miso ice cream (use less
salty versions). On the savory menu we
serve a soy bean ice cream with venison
and fleur de sel sprinkled on top
Latin—mangoes, pineapples—domestic
fruits. Episota—Latin herb. Setiva,
a sweet herb that tastes like sweet and
low, god’s sugar substitute. Tomatillos.
I use everything. I’ll pick up anything
in market.
Q. You live and work in New York City. Are there secret Asian and Latin shops
where you have gotten ingredients or ideas?
A. I go to Chinatown and get lost there.
Salted dried plums hit more taste buds
in mouth than you can count—salty
sweet sour. Licorice. Find things that
freak you out or you love.
Q. How do you design an Asian- or Latin-influenced
dessert for an American palate?
A. Be true to what you like and it won’t
be interpreted as wrong. Can’t force
it by using Asian ingredients, just to
have something Asian on the menu. Must
come naturally. Be true to flavor. |
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Nancy Silverton
Q. Los Angles has both large Asian and
Latin cultures. Have they altered the way
you design your desserts?
A. My restaurant and the desserts and
flavors are Mediterranean. But from this
conference I realize there are many Asian
and Latin ingredients that we use at Campanile
that are used in a way that is not true
Latin or Asian. We use cardamom, vanilla,
coconut, and cinnamon.
Q. Describe desserts on your menu with
Asian or Latin themes.
A. I use these themes loosely. We opened
the restaurant with a rice flan, baked
in the oven. You cook the rice, put in
bottom of caramel lined ramekin, and fill
with custard. It is served turned out and
surrounded by lime caramel and a brandy
snap. We also have a crèma Catalan.
It has a caramel-lined bottom and served
in a dish with candied caramel corn, spicy
peanuts, and other condiments that you
dip in the crèma. It’s Latin-influenced
but still in the style of the restaurant.
Monday nights we have family night with
a less expensive prix fixe, often with
a Latin or Asian theme.
This weekend I’m serving an ice
cream pie. Homemade graham crackers ground
up with cinnamon, cardamom and nutmeg.
Fill with dulce de leche ice cream. I thought
it was Mexican but found out this weekend
it is from Argentina . The ice cream base
is sweetened condensed milk, boiled in
the can for a couple of hours until it
is caramelized and thick. It’s served
with hot fudge, cajeta, and salted peanuts.
Q. How do you create a dessert when you
are trying to merge two distinct culinary
styles?
A. Don’t try to merge styles unless
you are comfortable with them both. I’m
comfortable with French and Italian. Create
a new dessert by using spice or technique.
Don’t build on it in traditional
ways or in a way you wouldn’t feel comfortable.
[You] must be true to the source.
Q. Do any of your breads have a Latin
or Asian influence?
A. No, I make hearth-baked crusty loaves.
[I] don’t bring Asian or Latin flavors
in. |
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Maricel Presilla
Q. What are the different cacao beans
used to make chocolate, and how do they
influence the final taste of the chocolate?
A. There are three main types and they
all come from 20 percent north or south
of the equator. The finest is criollo.
Very light beans, very pronounced aroma,
nutty flavor.
Next is forastero from the lower and
upper Amazon. They are very dark, tannic,
strong acidity; trinitario is a hybrid
of forastero and criollo, combining the
fine aroma of criollo with the strength
of forastero. Unfortunately criollo is
very rare. There aren’t any sources
for pure beans. You must use blends. Only
chocolate with a lot of criollo is Sur
del Lago by Guittard.
Q. Latin American cultures blend spices
differently than we do in the United States, especially when used in chocolate. What
spices are used and how are they balanced
to not overpower a dessert?
A. The older the cuisine, the more aromatic
and flavorful the desserts. [Among the]
few areas that retain cooking with spices
are Mexico and Central America. Held onto
pre-colonial cooking.
Usually see blend of Old and New World
spices. New World achioto (for coloring)
vanilla extract (not beans). Old World
Ceylon-true cinnamon, star anise, nutmeg.
The cross over spice is allspice. It belongs
to everyone and blends many spices. It
is a native American berry and pan-Latin
spice used in Mexico , Peru , and Brazil
. It is best to grind your own allspice.
You can use all parts of allspice tree—the
bark for cooking jerk sauce, leaves for
seasoning. Steep leaves into custard for
desserts. It grows in South Florida.
Chiles not used in dessert. Spiced chocolate
drink in pre-colonial and colonial times.
Spicy edge died out. Now chefs are beginning
to use them.
Brown loaf sugar very important as flavoring.
Dark-brown sugar shaped into square or
cone, wrapped with leaves or corn husks.
Look like meteorite. Once you begin to
use it you can’t stop—it’s
sugar with backbone, personality, with
a lot of flavor. Sugar is boiled down and
transferred between five cauldrons until
crystallized. Called various names: [in]
Columbia panella, [in] Mexico pilloncio
(for mold). Each country has different
variety. Look for a wine-y taste. It adds
flavor, color, and texture as it melts
to molasses consistency. With vanilla,
anise, and cinnamon. It’s a very
powerful and intense and adds a complex
layer to desserts.
Q. What is a metate and how is it used?
A. It is the most important pre-Columbian
piece of kitchen equipment. It is used
to rub shelled cacao beans into chocolate.
Volcanic grinding stone with three legs
with a rough surface, making it easier
to grind. It is heated up from underneath.
The beans are rubbed, not pounded by hand
with a sidewise pestle against the surface.
Used in colonial Philippines, Mexico,
and France. France transformed it into
something more efficient. A metate was
also found in Colonial Williamsburg. |
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Mai Pham
Q. What are the most popular Vietnamese
sweets?
A. There are three categories of sweets:
- Beverages—glass of red beans
cooked until soft, served with simple
syrup and coconut milk infused with pandan
leaves and tapioca strands or pearls
and shaved ice. It is stirred together
and drunk with a large straw or with
a large spoon.
- Cakes—no ovens, so they are not
baked but steamed. Corn or rice flour
and tapioca starch are added to coconut
milk or water and flavored with pandan
leaf or pureed legumes. Steam in layers—pour
one batter and steam; pour another batter
of a different color on top and steam,
later cut into wedges. Garnish with sesame
seeds.
- Hot or warm puddings. Tapiocas. Warm
bananas with tapioca pearls. All simmered
in coconut milk. Garnish with toasted
peanuts and sesame seeds.
Q. Do Vietnamese people enjoy desserts
at the end of a meal, or at other times
of the day?
A. Vietnamese don’t like desserts
right after a meal. They prefer them throughout
the day as snacks, or two hours after a
meal they will have a late night snack
of dessert. After a big meal they usually
have fruit and tea.
Q. What are some of the unique ingredients
used in Vietnamese desserts?
A. Rice, sticky rice as is or turned
into flour, coconut milk as a flavor, sauce
or garnish. Aromatics like pandan leaf
or vanilla.
Q. How can these ingredients be incorporated
in American dessert menus?
A. Many ingredients chefs go to ingredients
for ideas and inspiration. Tapioca pearls
have a nice texture, roll-in-the-mouth feel.
Use as sauce or filling. Aromatics, rosewater,
jasmine essence, orange blossom, grapefruit
flower blossom immediately add tropical flair
in an easy way. |
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Michael Batterberry
Q. How do you think Latin and Asian dessert
flavors will impact American menus?
A. They already have. They will continue
too because they have been given an extra
shot of adrenalin through this conference.
The public is much more adventurous, looking
to new horizons of flavors. They want more
variety. The new worlds of flavors are
going to be intriguing as they add to sample
plates across the country. Ripple effect
of this kind of event is enormous. It will
become part of menus in restaurants then
cafes, catering, hotels, and retail. Then
it will become commonplace.
Q. Are drinkable desserts the next trend?
A. Drinkable dessert possibilities are
infinite, both creatively and commercially.
One can incorporate different flavors and
have the public try them. It is easier
to put in a drink than an entrée,
takes less of commitment on the part of
customer. Dessert drinks or drinks by a
new collaboration between the pastry chef
and the bartender. Not just flavors but
also using great range of liqueurs and
spirits that aren’t used much.
Q. What is the role of the restaurant
in innovating new cuisine flavors and remaining
true to their original intent?
A. The central issue in defining … taste
and directions from this moment on is the
tug between globalism and neo-regionalism
or clanism. Specific regions of the United
States don’t want to lose familiarity,
even if they are wrong. Every ethnicity
welcome to the table and on the menu. Restaurants
have taken over home cooking. Chefs take
flavors and make them mainstream. They
will figure out if the easiest way to capture
the public’s attention is in a dessert,
main course, buffet table, drink at bar,
or whatever it may be. These are people
changing the way the country eats.
Q. Why have American chefs been so receptive
to flavors from different cultures?
A. Because they are better educated with
a breadth of knowledge by the time they
come into a kitchen. They travel and are
more open.
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