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When
applying the traditions of Latino and Asian
cuisines to American dessert menus, it is important
to keep in mind how the ethnic cuisines are
prepared and consumed. We must understand ingredients,
why and how they fit into everyday culture.
As Julie Sahni explained, “Learning ethnic
food is like learning a classical instrument;
you must learn the scales and the notes.”
It is up to every
chef to interpret the ingredients differently,
according to their creativity and life experience.
Maricel Presilla noted, “The
future of American dessert traditions is personal."
Daniel Tay, from Singapore, was amazed at
the way American pastry chefs create flavor
combinations. "The flavors and presentation
in France never differ," he said. In his
final thoughts, Michael Batterberry described
the event as a seminal experience, one that
will prompt pastry chefs to reevaluate their
dessert styles.
Procuring Asian and Latin
American ingredients can be difficult, but
luckily for American pastry chefs, many perishable
fruits and other ingredients adapt well to
canning or freezing. Asian and Latino markets
can be found throughout the United States,
not just in major cities, and the attending
pastry chefs said they find inspiration in
exploring these markets. They discover new
things, take them back to their kitchens,
and experiment.
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Participating pastry chefs each
created a dessert with Asian or Latin American flavors,
incorporating sponsors’ ingredients.
- Florian
Bellanger, executive
pastry chef at Fauchon in New York: chiffonade of
aloe marinated pineapple, roasted sesame seed ice
cream, and chestnut sushi.
- Richard
Capizzi, pastry sous
chef at Per Se in New York: lemon grass cremeux.
- Mark
Chapman, pastry chef Hotel
Mansion del Rio: poteet strawberry and Mexican cream
momtasio festivo Napoleon with orange cilantro and
blackberry lemon cello sauce.
- Karen
DeMasco, pastry chef at
Craft/Craft Bar: kaffir lime steamed pudding and
cardamom ice cream.
- Elizabeth
Falkner, executive
pastry chef/managing partner Citizen Cake, San Francisco: “Something Chocolate This Way Comes” (chocolate
chibouste with thais-infused coconut sauce, curry
oil, and a tiny caramel tart).
- Zoe
Francoise, pastry instructor
at Cooks of Crocus Hill in St. Paul, MN: warm chocolate
rum cake, tamarind sorbet, and tropical fruit salad.
- Mark
Furstenberg, founder and
owner of The Bread Line in Washington, DC: watalpan
(Sri Lankan bread pudding).
- Gale
Gand, partner and executive
pastry chef at Tru in Chicago: blueberry picking.
- David
Guas, corporate pastry
chef for Cieba, DC Coast and TenPenh in Washington, DC: “La Bomba.”
- Tom Gumpel, The
Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park: citrus refresher.
- Thomas
Haas, owner of Thomas
Haas Fine Chocolates and Patisserie Ltd: refreshing
cocktail of coconut, pineapple, and mint, kalamansi
sorbet.
- Stanton
Ho, executive pastry
chef at the Las Vegas Hilton: Japanese green tea
and white chocolate mousse with azuke cream and served
with a caramel ginger and Mandarin sauce.
- John
Hui, executive pastry chef
at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas: dulce de
leche cake with rum raisin pineapple compote, caramel
sauce, and raisin concentrate.
- Michael
Laiskonis, pastry chef
at Tribute outside of Detroit: sweet tofu salad
(muscat ginger caramel, lychee gelee, matcha syrup,
yuzu foam).
- Yvan-David
Lemoine, consulting
pastry chef in New York City: caramel coquitos (little
coconuts) and palm sugar ganache.
- Emily
Luchetti, cookbook author
and executive pastry chef at Farallon Restaurant,
San Francisco: milk chocolate chai ice cream sandwiches
with a banana vanilla bean compote and toasted cashews.
- Natasha
MacAller, pastry chef
at Em Bistro in Los Angeles: Latin goat cheese tart
with quince jam and pinon-cornmeal crust.
- Ken
Magana, pastry chef at Postrio
at The Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas: pear crunchy
crystal ginger cake with chocolate lemon grass-thyme
ice cream.
- Sam
Mason, pastry chef WD-50
in New York City: kumquat confits, sesame ice cream,
soy caramel.
- Christine
McCabe Tentori, executive
pastry chef at Sugar in Chicago: mocha Thai coffee.
- Christopher
Northmore, executive
pastry chef at Cherokee Town and Country Club in
Atlanta: coconut and palm sugar panna cotta, sticky
rice, imperial pu-eh tea coulis, honey ginger, coconut
tuile.
- Luis
Perea and Laura Cid Perea,
co-owners of Bombon Bakery in Chicago: pinole tart
with warm bittersweet chocolate.
- Nicole
Plue, pastry chef at
Julia’s Kitchen at Copia in Napa: Thai coffee
parfait.
- Megan
Roen, pastry chef at Bayona
restaurant in New Orleans: five-spice chocolate
delice.
- Richard
Ruskell, executive pastry
chef at The Montage Resort Hotel in Laguna Beach: chai tea tapioca with lemon grass, syrup sweet pea
shoots, and crispy noodles.
- Nancy
Silverton, pastry chef/owner
of Campanile and baker/owner of La Brea Bakery: dulce
de leche ice cream pie with hot fudge, cajeta, and
salted peanuts.
- Vicki
Wells, executive pastry
chef at Mesa Grill and Bolo in New York City: smoked
vanilla and toasted pecan flan.
- Sherry
Yard , executive pastry
chef at Spago Beverly Hills: yuzu and green tea.
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