In a country of more than a billion people speaking numerous languages and practicing many faiths, it may seem simplistic to divide the food culture into north and south. That’s painting with a broad brush, of course, but some valid distinctions do emerge when you mentally partition India horizontally.

Kerala Chef Nimmy Paul

North India shows the culinary thumbprint of the Middle East, Central Asia and the Mediterranean. Moghul cooking evolved here, highly influenced by Persia. The Moghuls introduced breads and the art of the tandoor, made pilafs and lavish biriyani with dried fruits and saffron and thickened their braises with yogurt and nut butters. They cooked kebabs of lamb and goat, borrowing directly from the Persian kitchen. Dishes garnished with gold and silver leaf are Moghul in spirit.

Southern India, especially the coastal region has been much more influenced by Southeast Asia. The cooking of Kerala, with its reliance on tamarind, lime and coconut milk, shares similarities with the cooking of Thailand. In the South Indian kitchen, coconuts prevail, with fresh grated coconut used in vegetable dishes and coconut milk thickening curries and stews. Fish is plentiful, simmered in fiery curries flavored with fresh curry leaf, tomato and tamarind. In a fisherman’s home in the south, you might be served a large amount of rice on a banana leaf, with a soupy fish curry spooned over it and a crisp papad (large lentil wafer) on the side for crunch. “You sit on the floor, roll up your sleeves and dig in with your fingers,” says Sahni.

Erachi Ularthiyathu (Lamb with Kerala Spices)

Tomato, Garlic and Yogurt Relish

Mophla Chicken Biriyani