Susan Powell
Ashland, Ore.

Category: casual dining

Susan Powell is the chef-owner of Pilaf, a vegetarian restaurant opened in 1996, and the Global Pantry, a wholesale food business specializing in packaged grains and seasonings.

View Pilaf's menu

Concept: I've called Pilaf "polyethnic" to denote a range of flavors without being locked into saying it's Greek or Moroccan. That gives me some latitude, but I don't go any farther east than India. The lands of the garbanzo are where I see a common thread. The original plan was to develop Pilaf into a franchiseable entity. I wanted to keep it casual and moderately fast. If we were full to the gills, we would have 120 to 130 covers.

Why vegetarian? It's what I've always gravitated toward. I'm not now a vegetarian but I was for many years. My cooking was all pantry and garden oriented, and I fell into that thing with grains.

Menu hits: The combination plates. I think that's something people recognize. They have the idea of the combination plate from Mexican restaurants, and they think, "I can't figure out what to get. There's sure to be something I like (on the combination plate), and I don't have to make choices." I've been surprised that people haven't ordered more from the meze side of the menu, but it's a concept that's not familiar.

We have an Israeli sampler and a Palestinian sampler. The Israeli is very popular and has been around longer than the Palestinian. It has the most familiar things: tabbouleh, hummous, falafel. The Turkish sampler is also popular, but it's the most expensive because it has spinach pie that we make with puff pastry.

Menu misses: Breakfast. People weren't ready for the breakfast concept. I had a "Moroccan Morning"—chakchouka (North African "ratatouille") with eggs, served over couscous and pita bread; and "Arab pancakes" with rose syrup and pistachios and whipped cream thickened with labneh; and Indian fried rice; and an Indian spinach and egg dish, kind of like a frittata, served with Indian spiced potatoes simmered in yogurt.

Signature beverages: The Mediterranean Cooler is the most unusual. We describe it as lemonade with sour cherry syrup, lime juice, rose water and sugar. It has a beautiful pink color and that background fragrance from rose water. It's really popular, and we're probably going to bottle it.

A guest will say, "What's that pink one?" and we'll take a 1- or 2-ounce cup and give them a sip. That will do it just about every time.

The other drink we have is ginger lemonade. We buy the ginger juice and add it to regular lemonade so it has a little punch.

One great idea: We have two levels of service, which was a little off-putting to some at first, but has worked out well. Downstairs is the casual street food to go, with pita sandwiches and some of the meze items. If it doesn't do well in a box, it doesn't go on that menu. A lot of shopkeepers and downtown workers will call ahead and get something to take back to the store.

Upstairs is more European style, with table service and an expanded menu.

What customers remember: I think it's the food; I really do. It has flavors that they haven't encountered other places: Aleppo pepper, smoked paprika, rosewater, za'atar. So many things we serve with pita bread, which has za'atar on it. We grill the pita, and when we turn it over, we hit it with the za'atar. And we make all our own spice blends.

Biggest challenge: Being a vegetarian restaurant. It's amazing the number of people who think they have to have meat with every meal. We once had a reservation for 12 and one person couldn't deal with (the meatless menu) and left. Two others left in sympathy. It's definitely an obstacle to some people. We solve the problem one customer at a time.

I'm trying to de-stigmatize vegetarian food so people don't think it's all about brown rice, tofu and broccoli. We put out tasty food that just happens to be vegetarian, but we can't not say it's a vegetarian restaurant.

The look: At least once or twice a week, someone asks, "What are your dining room colors? I want them in my house." I like color, but I was really afraid when I first started painting. People would come in and say, "Hmmm, interesting," until I was about to back down. I was trying to get colors that might remind you of someplace you'd been on vacation—the Mediterranean or Mexico. The wainscoting is earthy red, the main part of the wall is almost a turmeric color, and the ceiling is bright blue. When people come into the dining room, they remember it.

Making this food accessible: The biggest thing we've done is our glossary. The back page of the menu has "From Ayvar to Za'atar, a Pilaf Glossary." Server education is just critical. We make them study the menu, and I quiz them. Now they say (to customers), "If you have questions, just ask me, or there's a glossary in the back."