Advieh: Persian spice mixture that varies
according to the dish it is used in; may include dried rose petals,
cinnamon, cardamom, cumin, ground angelica, saffron, nutmeg or other
spices.
Aleppo
pepper: A dark red, mildly spicy ground red pepper from Syria;
sometimes marketed as “Near East pepper.”
Arack/arak:
Lebanese grape-based alcoholic beverage flavored with aniseed. The same
beverage is raki in Turkey. It is typically diluted with ice
and water, like pastis or ouzo, and is the traditional
accompaniment to Middle Eastern meze.
Baharat:
The word means “mixed spices”in Arabic and different cooks
will have their own blend. In Lebanon and Syria, baharat typically includes
black peppercorns, allspice, cinnamon and nutmeg. In Tunisia, it may
include pepper, rose petals and cinnamon.
Barberry:
Known as zereshk in Iran, these tart red berries are the fruit
of a shrub, Berberis vulgaris or B. aristata. They
are considered too sour to eat raw. Typically they are purchased in their
dried state, reconstituted in water and added to stews and rice dishes
to impart a tart taste and jewel-like color. Look for red berries at
the market; darker ones may be old. To use, stem the berries, then place
them in a colander set in a bowl of cold water for about 20 minutes to
allow any sand to sink to the bottom. Lift them out of the water, rinse
again with cold water and drain.
Bottarga:
Salted and dried roe of tuna or mullet, typically cured whole in its
egg sac and pressed between boards to make it dense and compact. In Sicily
and Sardinia, the salty bottarga is crumbled or shaved over pasta or
beans.
Bulgur:
Wheat that has been partially cooked, sun-dried and cracked. It is available
in different sizes from fine to coarse. Fine bulgur is for tabbouleh
and kibbeh. Coarser bulgur is for soup and pilaf.
Butifarra:
A spicy pork sausage from the Catalonia region of Spain, typically seasoned
with cinnamon and fennel seed.
Farro:
An ancient relative of wheat, now cultivated in Italy’s Garfagnana
and Abruzzo regions. It is often confused with spelt, a different species.
Farro somewhat resembles barley or brown rice and takes about as long
to cook. Italians use it in soups, often paired with beans.
Harissa:
Spicy red pepper paste used in Tunisia and, to a lesser extent, in Morocco.
It may be flavored with cumin, garlic, caraway and sometimes other spices
and is typically preserved under oil for long keeping. Harissa is
also the name of the sauce made by thinning harissa paste with
lemon juice and broth to make a condiment for couscous.
Harous:
A Southern Tunisian condiment made of lightly fermented onions pureed
with dried red peppers and spices.
Herbes
de Provence: A dried herb mixture that typically includes thyme,
lavender, savory, rosemary, sage and bay; recipes and proportions vary
with the manufacturer or cook.
Horta:
The Greek word for cooked wild greens, often used in savory pies or simply
boiled and dressed with olive oil and lemon.
Kashk:
Drained, salted and sun-dried yogurt used in Persian cooking
Kasseri:
A semi-hard, pasta filata (spun-curd) Greek cheese made from sheep’s
milk, sometimes with goat’s milk added.
Kefalograviera:
An aged Greek sheep’s milk cheese used as a table cheese or for
grating.
Kefalotyri:
A salty, aged Greek cheese made from sheep’s milk or goat’s
milk or a blend of the two. Younger versions can be used as a table cheese;
older ones are for grating.
Labneh:
Lebanese drained yogurt, about the thickness of cream cheese.
Ladotiri:
A Greek sheep’s milk cheese (although it may contain goat’s
milk) preserved in olive oil.
Mahleb:
A spice favored in the Near East, it is made by pulverizing the kernels
inside the pits of a type of sour cherry (Prunus mahaleb). It
has a sweet fragrance and is used in Turkish sweet breads and rolls.
Manouri:
A fresh, smooth, rindless cream cheese-like sheep’s milk cheese
from Greece.
Maraş pepper:
A prized ground red pepper from Turkey; it is mildly hot. Sometimes marketed
as “Near East pepper.”
Mastic:
Crystallized resin from the Pistacia lentiscus tree, it is also
known as gum Arabic. The Greek island of Chios in the Aegean is the sole
source. The mastic is gathered in early summer by slashing the trees
to allow the thick sap to drain. To use, it is powdered fine in a mortar,
usually with sugar to keep it from sticking. It is largely used in desserts,
liqueurs and ice cream. Diane Kochilas describes mastic’s aroma
and flavor as “woody, earthy and musky like incense.”
Melokhia:
A leafy green in the mallow family, much loved in Egypt. Typically, the
green is chopped fine, cooked briefly in meat broth and served as soup,
with the meat from the broth served separately.
Merguez:
Spicy fresh lamb sausage from North Africa, often coiled, snake-like,
then skewered and grilled.
Mizithra:
A whey cheese made with sheep’s or goat’s milk or a combination;
mizithra may be fresh or aged.
Morcilla:
Spanish blood sausage, classically made with rice and seasoned with cinnamon
and clove. It is added to stews or sliced and fried.
Orange
flower water: A clear, fragrant liquid distilled from orange
blossoms. Orange flower water scents many pastries, syrups and custards
in the Middle East and North Africa. It is intense and should be used
sparingly.
Ouzo:
Anise-flavored spirit popular in Greece; like French pastis or
Turkish raki, it is typically mixed with water, which turns
it from clear to cloudy.
Pastirma/pastourma:
Dried pressed meat, usually beef, seasoned with garlic and warm spices
such as paprika and cumin; it is usually sliced paper thin. In Egypt,
it is eaten for breakfast with ful (cooked beans). American
pastrami is an obvious descendant.
Pastis:
Anise-flavored spirit popular in France, especially in the south; it
is typically mixed with water, which turns it cloudy, and drunk as an
aperitif.
Pimentón:
The Spanish word for Spanish paprika, which may be sweet, bittersweet
or hot.
Pimentón
de la Vera: A sought-after Spanish paprika made from chiles
that have been smoke-dried, which gives it a seductive smoky taste.
Piquillo
peppers: Small, sweet red peppers from Spain, with a slight
piquancy. They are roasted over a wood fire, then skinned and jarred.
In the Basque country, they are often stuffed with salt cod.
Pomegranate
syrup/molasses: The concentrated juice of sour pomegranates.
It is thick and dark, with a sweet-sour taste. It is widely used in
the Middle East in marinades, beverages, dips, sauces, grain salads
and stews.
Preserved
lemons: An essential ingredient in Moroccan cooking, preserved
lemons impart a salty, lemony, pickled taste to many dishes, especially
vegetables, salads, tagines and braised chicken. The lemons
are typically quartered and cured in salt and their own juice for several
weeks. They must be rinsed before using. For most recipes, the pulp
is discarded and only the rind is used.
Raki:
See Arack.
Ras el
hanout: Literally, “top of the shop,”a Moroccan
seasoning mix that may include dozens of ingredients—some, like
orrisroot and ash berries, quite exotic.
Rígani:
Wild Greek oregano, most often used dried. It is more pungent than common
supermarket oregano.
Rose
water: A clear, fragrant liquid distilled from rose petals.
Rose water scents many pastries, syrups and custards in the Middle
East and North Africa. It is intense and should be used sparingly.
Samna:
Clarified and aged butter used in North Africa and the Middle East as
a cooking fat. It is usually salted and may be flavored with herbs or
spices.
Smen:
See Samna.
Sumac:
A ground brick-red spice from the dried berries of a nonpoisonous variety
of the sumac bush (Rhus coriaria). It has a pleasantly sour,
lemony taste and is widely used in the Middle East. Sumac is often sprinkled
on grilled kebabs or rice pilafs and is a component of most za’atar blends.
Some dishes call for the tart liquid obtained from steeping the whole
berries.
Tabil:
A Tunisian spice mixture that typically includes caraway, garlic, red
pepper, fennel seed, aniseed, cumin, turmeric and black pepper. Used
in salads, stews and couscous.
Tarama:
The salted roe of carp or mullet. Greeks puree it with olive oil, bread,
garlic and lemon to make taramosalata, a creamy dip.
Trahana:
A hard, coarse, pebble-like pasta made with wheat (either flour or cracked
wheat) mixed with buttermilk, milk or yogurt, then sun dried. Trahana
is rehydrated by cooking in soups or stews.
Za’atar:
A seasoning blend that typically includes dried thyme, roasted sesame
seed and sumac, although components may vary. Mixed with olive oil, it
makes a dip for bread.

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