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Embracing “Sustain-agility”

For farmers, chefs, and diners, sustainability is a hot topic these days. Even if we can’t quite agree on how to get there, we all perceive it as a goal.

Many people would say that a sustainable business has three imperatives: making better environmental choices, treating employees well so they can sustain themselves, and making a profit. Because no matter how “green” you are, if you can’t stay in business, your operation isn’t sustainable.

Thomas Tomich, PhD, who heads the Agricultural Sustainability Institute at the University of California at Davis, likes to talk about “sustain-agility,” the notion that a business, to be sustainable, must remain flexible and open to change.

In California’s lettuce fields, growers are switching to biodiesel for farm equipment, recycling their drip-irrigation tape, and installing more efficient lighting in produce coolers. Produce growers throughout the state have adopted IPM (integrated pest management) practices—ideas like interspersing crops with plants that attract beneficial insects—as a way of reducing or eliminating pesticide use.

“The biggest operators in the state are in the forefront of conservation practices,” says A. G. Kawamura, California’s secretary of agriculture. “We are trying to leave the mistakes of the 20th century behind.” That’s sustain-agility.

Buying local also sounds like the sustainable choice, but it’s impractical in many parts of the country for much of the year. “You can’t take that strategy that far if you’re talking about increasing fruit and vegetable consumption,” says Roberta Cook, PhD, an economist with University of California Cooperative Extension.

A better option for foodservice operators is to build relationships with grower-shippers. In the past, grower-shippers worked primarily with retail warehouses. But that’s changing, says Cook. Grower-shippers are shifting more of their volume into foodservice. (“Sustain-agility” again.) Because they represent numerous growers, grower-shippers have an expanded product line and a long shipping season on many items, making it possible to incorporate fruits and vegetables that you couldn’t menu before.

“Fresh produce enables you to differentiate successfully,” says Cook. It adds appetizing color, appeals to the health-conscious diner, and keeps plate cost down.

Practice “sustain-agility.” Reach out to grower-shippers and discuss what’s possible. They can provide programs and solutions, not just products, says Cook. Some grower-shippers have hired foodservice liaisons. When necessary, make seasonality a plus. A limited-time offer creates excitement among diners and builds your reputation for freshness.

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