On the Global Flavor Watch
From Peruvian ceviche to Vietnamese pho to Lebanese meze, isn’t ethnic food wonderful?
“‘Ethnic food’ is a term that needs to be put in the trash bin,” argues Greg Drescher, executive director of strategic initiatives for The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone. Calling something “ethnic” implies that it comes from somewhere else and isn’t part of your daily experience.
But American food increasingly means global food, says Drescher. We American cooks gather ingredients and inspirations from everywhere and gradually make them our own. Just look at the prevalence of sushi in American supermarkets.
“The mega-trend in America is the expansion of formerly fringe cuisines of the Mediterranean, Latin America, and Asia,” predicts Drescher. “Those are going to be core flavors.”
Diners’ booming interest in world cuisines is an opportunity to rethink the produce kitchen, says Drescher. Although American chefs tend to consider produce last—as the filler on the plate—the rest of the world thinks differently. In India, Vietnam, and Turkey, fresh vegetables, fruits, and herbs dominate the table at everyday meals. Chefs looking for ways to showcase produce need look no further.
“You can borrow selected ideas,” urges Drescher. “You don’t have to take it all as a package.”
Consider the noodle soups of Vietnam, which combine hefty portions of broth, noodles, herbs, leafy greens, and bean sprouts with minimal meat. “Americans crave these,” says Drescher. Could a modified Vietnamese noodle soup work in your operation?
When you dine in a Vietnamese restaurant, notice how liberally the cooks use fresh herbs—almost as if they were salad greens. “Herbs are like my sous-chef,” says Mai Pham, the Vietnamese food writer and chef-owner of Lemongrass in Sacramento, California. “They do a lot of work for me.”
Asian basil, pandanus leaves, rau ram (Vietnamese coriander), cilantro, and perilla infuse the cooking of Vietnam. Many dishes are served with bouquets of fresh herbs—the leaves always whole, never chopped, so the diner can tear them into soups or wrap them in rice paper pancakes with grilled shrimp for an aromatic burst.
Pham suggests using Asian basil raw in salads, or adding it to stir-fries, stews, curries, pesto and infused oils. “It loves all proteins,” says the chef.
Red or green perilla complements grilled pork, vegetable stews and soups, and cooked tofu.
Rau ram is used raw in salads, as a topping for brothy soups or as a complement to chicken.
When using Southeast Asian herbs in cooking, use the tender stems, too. Just tear herbs into sprigs and toss into soups or stir-fries.
One fresh idea: Serve a Vietnamese-style table salad (red leaf lettuce, sliced cucumber, bean sprouts, Asian basil) with skewered grilled meats and a spicy peanut dipping sauce. Instruct diners to use the lettuce as a wrapper, with the remaining ingredients tucked inside. Who wouldn’t love those global flavors?
