In the beginning, all produce was local. But with the development of modern transportation and refrigeration, farms have moved ever farther from the cities. Out of sight, out of mind. No wonder so many urbanites have lost any emotional connection to the food they buy.


Mas Masumoto Interview

But that’s changing. In a post-9/11 world, many Americans feel the lack of a sense of community, rootedness and security. In venues as varied as Wal-Mart and Wegmans, the upscale East Coast grocery chain, shoppers are proving that they respond to the emotional appeal of buying local.

But how do you find regional farmers and food artisans who can meet your needs? Chefs who’ve done it offer the following suggestions:

  • Visit the farmers’ markets in your region. Engage farmers in conversation. Farmers want to grow what customers want to eat, but often there’s a gap in communication.

  • Consider restaurant-supported agriculture, a variation on the popular idea of community-supported agriculture (CSA), where consumers buy “shares” in a farm’s future harvest. If you provide up-front seed money and a commitment to buy, many farmers will grow whatever you request.

“It’s a challenge from a menu development standpoint,” acknowledges Steve Schimoler, chef/owner of Mist Grill in Vermont, which prepaid eight farmers to grow produce in the summer of 2004. You need to “plan for flexibility,” so you can adapt to the ingredients that show up at 3 p.m. The superior quality and freshness, and the satisfaction of supporting local farm families, make the effort worthwhile.

  • Contact commodity boards to locate the growers and grower co-ops in your area. A co-op may be able to supply the volume you need.

  • Many states have programs to promote produce grown in the state, such as the “Pride of New York” campaign. Contact your state’s department of agriculture to find out if point-of-sale materials or co-op advertising funds might be available. The agriculture commissioner’s office can also help you source product from growers in your state.

  • Highlight your efforts. Make the local angle a focus of your promotions and publicity. Wegmans’ shoppers know when the corn is local and fresh because they see the farmer unloading it in front of the store.
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