In recent years, many chefs at high-end restaurants have built relationships with local farmers, buying direct from them and naming them on the menu. Now even large foodservice companies are taking their lead and reaping the benefits. Why should white-tablecloth establishments get all the best local produce?

At Bon Appetit Management Company, a foodservice company based in Palo Alto, California, executives have made a corporate commitment to support local communities by purchasing locally. “We were losing flavor because our vegetables were coming from farther away,” says Marc Zammit, director of culinary support and development. “We decided to buy locally, regionally and seasonally to preserve flavor.”

Mark Zammit Interview

Mark Zammit Interview Pt. 2

It’s not just about produce. In the Pacific Northwest, Bon Appetit purchases all its wheat from a nearby co-op that practices sustainable farming methods. The wheat yields enough flour—almost 450,000 pounds a year—to supply the baking needs of all the company’s regional accounts. Through signage and promotional materials, customers learn about the company’s efforts, and the farmers themselves have come into the cafes to serve food, talk to diners and help humanize the project. In the Midwest, Bon Appetit helped a small shuttered dairy re-open its doors by making a purchasing commitment that the dairy could take to its bankers.

Supporting local agriculture is in every chef’s self interest, argues Zammit. “When a small farmer sells his farm for condos or pulls up an orchard because he can’t compete with apples from China, we lose flavor on our plates for the future,” says the executive.

Most chefs in high-volume operations want one-stop shopping, Zammit acknowleges. They want to order from one supplier and handle one invoice. Although many chefs believe “that’s the way we should be doing it in foodservice,” Zammit urges his colleagues to accept a little more chaos and make a little more effort for a lot more flavor.

The company, which has corporate and university accounts across the country, encourages its chefs to visit local farmers’ markets and establish dialogue with local growers. “When you’re open to opportunities, it’s amazing what comes your way,” says Zammit. Being flexible is key. If a farmer says, “I’ve got some beautiful just-picked corn,” don’t say, “It’s not on my menu.” Make room for such seasonal specialties, and they will make a difference on your plates.

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