In the words of Russ Parsons, the esteemed food writer for the Los Angeles Times, we are living in a “golden age of agriculture.” Fruits and vegetables once considered exotic (mangos, fennel, habanero chiles) are now commonplace. The heirloom tomatoes that had a cult following a decade ago now turn up at suburban supermarkets.

“We’re on the edge of something spectacular here,” says Parsons, “a perfect storm of supply and demand.” Especially in the realm of Asian produce, the public desire for Asian flavors and the rapid expansion of Asian-accented chains like P. F. Chang’s China Bistro, Pei Wei and Pickup Stix has fueled astounding growth. In California’s Fresno County alone, there were more than 700 Asian-owned farms generating $10 million in sales of Asian vegetables in 2004, a 40 percent increase over the prior year.

Long beans, luffa squash, lichees and longans, roots, shoots and a variety of mint and basil are among the crops these entrepreneurial farmers are bringing to market. “Get out there and search and explore,” urges Parsons. “Start at farmers’ markets. That’s the point of entry for a lot of these new ingredients.”

If you can’t find the produce you want, or in the quantity you need, contact your county extension agent. These knowledgeable people are the experts on local agriculture. They know who’s farming what and where, and they can help you find someone growing what you’re looking for, or someone willing to grow it.

Mai Pham, chef-owner of Lemon Grass Restaurant in Sacramento

Fresh herbs play a starring role in Southeast Asian cuisines, says Mai Pham, chef-owner of Lemon Grass Restaurant in Sacramento, California. In Vietnam, where Pham was raised, platters of fresh herbs (mint, basil, rau ram, cilantro and more) accompany soups, and diners toss them into the hot broth just before eating it. Vietnamese sandwiches—made on a baguette and filled with pâté and cured meats—are typically stuffed with fresh herbs. Pham throws handfuls of shredded herbs into vegetarian dishes, such as stir-fried tofu marinated with lemon grass, garlic and shallots.

Although the herbs essential to Vietnamese cooking were largely unavailable when she started her restaurant, Pham found help at the local farmers’ market. There, she met a family of Asian farmers who now grow a wide variety of specialty herbs for her restaurant.