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Without immigrants, America would not have a food system. From our country’s earliest times, immigrants have grown our food and introduced us to new crops, from artichokes to bok choy to olives. The Scandinavians who settled the upper Midwest, the German ancestors of today’s Pennsylvania Dutch, and the Italian farmers in California who introduced us to broccoli rabe and fava beans have all changed how we eat.
Fortunately, the process continues with new immigrants. Today, they arrive from Southeast Asia—Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos; from East and West Africa; from Central America; from China. Gus Schumacher, a former U.S. Undersecretary of Agriculture, works for the Kellogg Foundation assisting new refugee and immigrant farmers, and he has helped many make fruitful connections with chefs.
Schumacher has worked with Caribbean farmers raising goat (cabrito), Cameroonian and Senegalese farmers raising West African okra and water leaves, Hmong farmers growing water spinach, and others growing Thai basil, pumpkin tendrils and pea shoots.
“There’s a wonderful opportunity for chefs to look at these new flavors,” says Schumacher. “Go down to the farmers’ market, bring them back and experiment.”
How can you partner with these new farmers? What can you do for them, and what can they do for you? Many lack marketing savvy or don’t have the equipment to pack or hydrocool properly, but they are growing crops that will give your plates (and your cooks) some cutting-edge excitement.
By 2010, America will have an estimated 75,000 Hispanic farmers; 30,000 Asian farmers; and 35,000 African-American farmers. This is the new face of American agriculture and the fastest-growing part of our farm production. These farmers are eager to sell. With just a little effort, you can tap into their diverse bounty and prepare yourself and your operation for America’s multicultural dining future.
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