Ah, the smelly cheeses. How can foods with such potent fragrance — in polite company you might call them garlicky — taste so sublime?
French washed-rind cheeses, such as Tomme d'Alsace, Reblochon, Saint-Nectaire and Munster, have a pungency that can fill a room, like white truffles. At a tea party they might be unwelcome, but at a dinner party they're divine. The mouthwatering aroma of a ripe Munster is the result of enzymes working on protein — akin to what you might find in a meat locker full of pricey dry-aged beef.
Cheesemakers work hard to develop the aromas in washed-rind cheeses by bathing them repeatedly with brine as they age. The brine seasons the cheese as the salt works its way in. But it also creates a moist, saline surface, luring bacteria that like those conditions. Have you noticed that most washed-rind cheeses have a rind with a tan or orangeish hue, sometimes resembling pale caramel? That's the sign that desirable bacteria have settled in on the surface. These bacteria produce enzymes that help to ripen the cheese, producing those head-turning scents.
A hoppy ale with bitter notes is a great match for washed-rind cheese. So are highly perfumed and textured white wines like Alsatian Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris.
Washed-rind cheeses add bold personality to dishes calling for melted cheese, like potatoes or cauliflower au gratin. To transform an everyday lasagne into a dish worthy of a fine Bordeaux, stir some grated Tomme d'Alsace or Saint-Nectaire into the béchamel.
See It Made: Fromage Lasagne with Roasted Vegetables
Cook's Tip: Love cheese? Then chances are your refrigerator harbors a trove of leftover bits — pieces too small to serve but too big to discard. When you have a nubbin of chèvre, a nugget of Roquefort and a smidgen of Comté — or small amounts of any French cheeses — make fromage fort. Grate or crumble the cheeses and put them in a food processor with a clove of garlic. Puree with just enough white wine to make a smooth spread. Add a splash of Cognac to finish. Serve with toasted baguette slices.
